I decided to post these Valheim Tips and Tricks, because these might help someone else to advance in the game. I only started playing it, when I saw a friend playing it on Steam, and was curious about it. So you can think of this as an advanced beginners guide.
Valheim Tips and Tricks
Valheim Tips and Tricks written by Gessie00
- To parry, equip a small shield and hit the block button just before an enemy hits a physical attack. This not only allows you to block more powerful attacks (far beyond tower shields), but staggers the enemy and allows you to deal double damage while the enemy recoils. This oddly works on ranged attacks as well.
- If parrying doesn’t work because your shield is too weak or you’re using a 2-handed weapon, roll instead (block + jump buttons). The roll has so-called “I-frames” during which you cannot be hit, with a timing window similar to the parry.
- Sneak attacks with the bow are easy to accomplish and will allow you to fight more efficiently, both time and munition-wise. If you’re over-powered compared to enemies you’re facing a melee weapon is even more efficient, however.
- Use the middle mouse button for special attacks, which differ per weapons category.
- Putting away your weapons with the R key also removes their movement speed penalty.
Outpost building and defense
- Building your outposts in close proximity to several biome borders grants access to varied resources and allows you to observe the territorial in-fighting of different creatures (complete with loot strewn across the terrain), but can also be dangerous.
- The hoe is mightier than the sword. Creatures cannot dig through terrain, making “terrain walls” effectively impenetrable to them. Thus the perfect defense is built either with a hoe and a pile of rocks, any pickaxe or ideally a combination of the two. Be warned that terrain alterations may cause stutter just as placing objects does (press F2 to check the number of “instances” loaded).
- A hoe can be used to raise terrain while you’re standing on it, allowing you to quickly erect a pillar to stand on and shoot melee enemies below. Beware that you need a workbench nearby to do this. With practice this is possible during combat.
- Most creatures never jump down from ledges (Fenring and Blobs are exceptions). A deep pit (around 3 “blocks”) is also largely safe, and you can shoot enemies coming close to the ledge. Flying creatures may attack from above if you don’t build a roof, however.
- Gates can be destroyed, but gaps the player jumps over when entering or exiting the base cannot. This trick can be inconvenient, however. Also note that you can scale steep terrain walls by sprinting and jump-spamming, especially when moving towards a crease (corner) for better traction, while most creatures cannot.
- The “Level Ground” option for the hoe uses the terrain height directly underneath you as the target altitude, though if you hold Shift while clicking it’ll use the altitude of the terrain you’re pointing at instead. Using this knowledge well may save you a lot of stone and work while landscaping as it only expends stamina and hoe durability (pun not intended).
Workbenches disallow enemy spawns in their radius, making them surprisingly useful defensive tools. You can hide these in the outer perimeter of your walls or in small pits covered with a few floor tiles to make an area safer. Workbenches also stop dropped items from de-spawning over time, however!
- If an invincible base isn’t enough for you, you can also build a “gangplank” for enemies to walk on, above your pit base, and put a campfire on it so they’ll kill themselves, then catch the loot when it drops down. Devious…
- The most FPS-efficient method of defense is to build on a few terrain pillars. This minimizes terrain alteration “instances” yet allows you to ignore enemies running around outside, especially if the base entrance requires a quick hop to get on. Note that returning terrain to its roughly native height doesn’t remove the FPS hit (unless a true “undo terrain changes” tool is added to the game).
- For an FPS-efficient location build close to the ocean, ideally on an island – this can save you thousands of “instances”. The Black Forest on the other hand is a few thousand instances heavier than other biomes.
- Doors and gates can be used to create a toggle-able bridge for carts. Another option to defend your bridge is to hang a gate from a support above it and attach the floor piece to the gate with small gaps on the sides, causing the floor to disappear if the gate is destroyed.
- You can place gates in the water to block enemies, who will be unable to attack the gates, yet allow boats to pass when opened.
- Surtlings die when walking in water, allowing you to convert their spawn point (shown as a giant fire geyser) into a Surtling Core plus Coal farm.
- Most enemies have trouble moving or attacking while in water. A moat works, or you can submerge a Fuling village to pillage it regularly with minimal effort.
- Using a combination of these ideas you can turn any boss summon altar into an arena to your advantage. I won’t spoil the specifics, but most bosses can be “cheesed” one way or another.
- Not just boss arenas, but any land area may be altered to the player’s advantage. Swamps can be leveled to avoid getting stuck in ponds, trees can be removed to improve visibility, bridges and canals may be created and much more – just keep the FPS hit in mind.
- Tame animals will attack walls and other structures if they cannot path towards a spotted enemy, which can be prevented by making sure they don’t have line of sight to creatures roaming nearby or by using terrain walls.
- One-star and two-star variants of creatures may be bred for vastly increased loot as their offspring will randomly be assigned the “star quality” of either parent. Once you have two ** creatures, all their offspring will be ** creatures.
- Tame boars are useful as a meat supply as they can be fed carrots, which are plentiful. * and ** boars will drop meat by the bundle.
- Tame wolves are excellent both for defense and their loot. This is true for the regular variant, which is easily tamed by digging a pit or raising terrain walls and putting a campfire nearby – even if you don’t have frost resistance clothing yet. Just be careful as they pack a hell of a punch. The * and ** versions drop more loot and deal more damage, but are very time-consuming to tame as they (mostly) spawn at night.
- The problem with night-spawned creatures is that they’ll run away from the player during the day and nothing else – no taming, breeding or eating – and will de-spawn if you move ~20 meters away from them (during the day). This is not true for their offspring, however, which behave normally.
- The easiest area to tame them is a small mountain biome, as no Golems nor Drakes will spawn there.
- They’ll sustain their numbers if weak enemies dropping meat are nearby, such as boars and deer. In safer areas this will allow them to grow their numbers without player intervention.
- Two methods may be used for optimal breeding speed, as creatures need space to procreate (approximately 10m radius for six animals):
- Create a platform too small for six animals, causing some to fall off the platform when offspring is spawned. If the height is sufficient the “platform animals” will never stop breeding when fed.
- Instead of confining wolves to a pen, have them follow you and keep them fed. They’ll mate as soon as they’re able and quickly populate the nearby area with cubs without space issues, though they’ll die surprisingly quickly even in the meadows. If the cubs survive into adulthood they’ll become both a formidable force and source of easy loot.
- Tamed Loxes are powerful but don’t breed and won’t attack plains creatures. They’re quite a sight, however.
The hardest Valheim Tips and Tricks to learn are usually the least known. Mining is one which took me a while to fully realize.
Pickaxe swings on minerals deal more damage from above and up close, making positioning important. Always mark mineral deposits on your map until depleted, and keep in mind that a large portion of the deposit is usually below ground.
- Creatures and plants respawn, allowing you to farm them if you know their location – mark these on your map. The same goes for yellow mushrooms found in dungeons. Queen bees don’t respawn, however, but can be used to build beehives which produce an endless supply of honey.
- The quickest way to plant crops in a straight line is to tilt the camera down at around 45 degrees and spamclick while moving forward. This will give them enough space to grow. Here’s how it works: Any plant on the ground will “block” your attempt to place a new one until you’re able to look over its hitbox and point the crosshair directly at the ground, which we take advantage of. Because of this, the ground should ideally be level to keep the spacing even.
- The quickest way to gather crops is by holding E and moving in straight line, assuming the crops are placed in a straight line. Holding E also works on the smelter and kiln!
- As a result, the optimal farm shape is a long rectangle so you barely need to move your mouse. A good framerate is important to avoid random mishaps, so you might want to build a dedicated farm.
- Flax and Barley are different in that they only grow in the plains and can be “looted” using weapons. Thus the Atgeir’s special attack (middle mouse button) can be used to rapidly clear the fields – just don’t try this on your normal crops.
These Valheim Tips and Tricks are mainly for decorations, but what may seem useless will help you to protect your assets. You should pay careful attention here.
- Item stands are an important decoration tool. Put food on the table, add a shiny Golem trophy to your storage shelves to demonstrate wealth, use yellow mushrooms for that magic forest feel, place a few cooked meat near your campfire and much more. Some items you might not expect can be displayed: Tankards, tools, meads, berries, weapons/shields, swamp keys, dragon eggs, Dverger Circlets and Yule Hats. Personally I hang the Eikthyr trophy above every dining table I build, while Surtling trophies make for an interesting addition to any forge.
- Use temporary platforms and sitting (“x” key) to build in hard-to-reach spots.
- You can build somewhat round buildings or segments with some effort. Simply place a wall, rotate a single tick, then place another wall next to the first, rotate again and so on. A smaller circle can be made using small floor tiles. Because Irongate was nice enough to let us clip structure objects into each other this works quite well, especially if adding floors and roofs to the inside of a round outline wall (even if the outline is removed later).
- Roofs look a bit un-immersive when snapped directly on top of walls. A way to mitigate this is to extend the roof past the wall by a full or half block – easily accomplished using the (small) floor tile. If combining this trick with a round building it might look better if you build a temporary outline below the extended roof, not the recessed walls supporting said roof. See image on right!
- Doors can be used to offset snap positions by a fixed amount, allowing you to snap to the exact center of stone walls for example. Holding shift to disable snapping and precisely placing a piece of structure can also be used to great aesthetic effect.
- If something you want seems impossible, think again – by using clipping, support structures and landscaping you can do pretty much anything, limited primarily by weight support. Signs can be partially clipped into chests for clear labeling, chests can be stacked, campfires can be placed on floors, iron gates can be clipped inside walls for increased durability, iron beams may be clipped inside walls for support, and much more.
- You may feel inclined to vent smoke straight out of a chimney as this would be the reasonable thing to do in real life. In Valheim, however, smoke rising against the ceiling is visually impressive and doesn’t cause soot buildup. Also, right now smoke is somewhat rarely used creatively in builds here on Reddit, so if you want to make your build stand out this is a great way to do it.
- Never use ugly straight terrain walls or monotonously repeated wooden/stone walls to prevent bland texture repetition. Instead of stacking stone walls in a grid layout, you should place each layer shifted to the side for a brick wall-type effect. Valheim will look like a voxel game if you lazily spam the same patterns over and over, but with a bit of effort and a personal touch you can create immersive and beautiful outposts in a variety of themes, as various players have demonstrated wonderfully here on Reddit.
- Use regular beams or log beams to frame windows, doorways, stairwells and chimneys. This makes a building look far more polished, though keep in mind that too many blocks may cause the game to stutter – there’s a balancing act between sheer size and fine detail. An outpost may look gargantuan from far away or intricate from up close, but both at the same time will likely send your framerate to Hel.
- Existing structures can make for interesting features in an outpost. Dungeon entrances not only look great but may be farmed for yellow mushrooms for example. Those giant stone obelisks in the plains are a great support to build a castle in the clouds, as well.
- Modern building often prioritizes unobstructed view – “open design“. This allows you to enjoy the wilds outside and avoids a cramped look. The problem is that the shelter mechanic is very important to gameplay. The game casts 17 “rays” from the character in all directions to check if there are walls and roofs present within 30 meters, thus some spots in your open home may provide shelter seemingly randomly while others do not, though you can mitigate this issue by placing a chair in the exact spot where shelter is available (keeping in mind that your altitude changes slightly when seated, which may change whether or not you receive the bonus).
- The strongest support pillar you can place is not stone nor iron, but a planted tree. It provides 100% support all the way to the top, though hiding the leaves and branches (if desired) can be bothersome.
- To build a spiral staircase: Vertically stack small beams in the center, then snap long beams horizontally to the central column, each rotated a single tick further than the last.
- Carts are cheap and visually unique storage props with a large capacity, not just cargo haulers. You can also put them in odd positions by sprinting into them, including on their backs (“vertical”), or push their front arms into/above another cart.
- Small doors can be used as closable windows. Large doors can as well, which may look good in a particularly large room if framed well.
- Different biomes allow for radically different aesthetics, thus choosing a location is the most important step before you even begin construction. Especially the mountains allow for a look not possible elsewhere due to snow and altitude differences.
Valheim Tips and Tricks - Misc
- Mark everything. This is one of the most important Valheim Tips and Tricks you can know, when you are first starting out! Your tombstone marker may disappear from the map if you die again so always mark it manually after you respawn. Dungeons markers are useful to keep track of which ones you’ve cleared (left-click an icon to cross it out with a red X). Portals should always be marked with the portal icon (the bottom one) and their exact name. Keeping your map in tip-top shape makes the game much easier.
- Though technically a basic tip, the rested bonus is crucial for combat, resource gathering and landscaping due to massive health and stamina regen bonuses, and a hidden 50% experience bonus on top. I cannot emphasize this enough: Make sure it’s always active.
- Setting a bed as your spawn point and then destroying said bed will allow you to respawn at the power altar. Great if you’re stranded somewhere.
- Press Ctrl+F3 to disable the HUD for screenshots.
- Backup your character once in a while. I’ve never lost one, but it has been reported to occur during abrupt game exits, whether deliberate (Alt+F4) or accidental (Windows/hardware crashes). To do this open File Explorer, type “%appdata%” into the path bar, press Enter. Click the arrow pointing up to move to the parent directory, then open LocalLow, then Irongate, then Valheim, then characters. You’ll see two files with your character’s name. Create a new folder named “backup” and copy (not move) the two character files in there. That’s it, you can now restore the backup whenever you want.
- You might’ve noticed the “worlds” folder below the “characters” folder, which you can use to make and share world backups.
- If you’re an instant-gratification dopamine addict like me you’re probably inclined to grind out the best gear, build some nice outposts and then sit around waiting for updates. Valheim is a game of endless possibilities. Start a new character, launch some boats or players across the map, and join the Body Recovery Squad You can also create an arena and host PVP tournaments complete with a selection of gear for the combatants. Why not offer home makeovers to other players, capture enemies in your personal dungeon, fistfight some Loxes or come up with something new entirely!
I made a subsection of my Valheim Tips and Tricks, specifically for Portals.
- Building a small/medium portal hub may prevent the game from stuttering on low-end machines. A hub is ideally placed right next to or around the power altar to swap powers on the go.
- Due to how portals work, swapping portal names to change their destination is possible but can lead to problems, especially when playing with others. Ideally you’ll want to create permanent portal pairs instead. If you lack the resources to do this, make sure to keep a destination list (using signs, map markers or a notepad file) and prevent getting stranded. Signs are especially useful when playing with others.
- A “temp” portal can be very useful, however, if you carry the resources to quickly construct one and salvage it after returning. You can also bring the resources to build a boat on the go.
- Portals can be attacked and destroyed. It’s generally a good idea to build at least a rudimentary defense around them. Terrain walls and pits are good options.
I strongly recommend not using these Valheim Cheats and to play the game “normally”. It’s useful to know if you dislike restrictions or would like to build giant structures without farming the resources.
- Valheim has a debug mode. To enable it press F5, then type “imacheater”, then “debugmode”. The “Z” key then toggles flying, “B” toggles build costs and “K” kills all creatures. Typing “God”, then pressing Enter will make you invincible.
- You can view your map online, revealing various resources, spawns, the trader location and other information. Using this may deprive you of the exploration aspect of the game, however. Here‘s a different, older map viewer (I don’t use either, so I listed both).
- A list of console commands may be found here.
- Mods will allow you to cheat in various ways.
You can find a full Valheim eBook here.
Valheim Tips and Tricks Final Words
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